When you slip on a BTFD shirt, you're wearing the culmination of a meticulous design process that combines creativity, technical expertise, and a deep understanding of what makes clothing both stylish and functional. Today, I'm pulling back the curtain to give you a glimpse into how we create the shirts you love, from the initial spark of inspiration to the finished garment that finds its way to your wardrobe.
Finding Inspiration
Every BTFD shirt begins with inspiration. Unlike fast fashion brands that simply chase the latest trends, our design process starts with a deeper exploration of enduring style elements that align with our "Buy The Fashion Dip" philosophy.
Inspiration can come from anywhere—architectural details, historical garments in museums, nature, or urban landscapes. Our design team keeps extensive mood boards and reference libraries that we continuously update. We also draw inspiration from our customers, paying attention to how they style our shirts and what they request.

A design inspiration board for our Urban Heritage collection
For our recent Urban Heritage collection, for example, we found inspiration in mid-century architectural elements—clean lines, thoughtful proportions, and a balance of form and function. We combined these influences with fabric techniques from traditional workwear to create shirts that feel both contemporary and timeless.
Concept Development
Once we have a direction, we begin developing specific concepts for individual shirts. This starts with hand sketches that explore silhouettes, proportions, and key details. At this stage, we're asking fundamental questions:
- What problem does this shirt solve for the wearer?
- How will it fit into their existing wardrobe?
- What occasions is it appropriate for?
- How can it be styled in multiple ways?
- What makes it distinctly BTFD while remaining versatile?
We believe that truly great design solves problems, which is why we consider functionality alongside aesthetics. Maybe it's a shirt that transitions seamlessly from office to evening, or perhaps it's a design that looks put-together even without ironing for the traveler on the go.

Early sketches for the Adaptable Oxford shirt
Material Selection
Concurrent with concept development, we begin the critical process of fabric selection. The right fabric can make or break a shirt design, affecting everything from how it drapes on the body to how it performs over time.
We work with textile mills in Portugal, Japan, and Italy to source and sometimes develop custom fabrics that meet our exacting standards. For each design, we consider:
- Fiber content and sustainability profile
- Weight and seasonal appropriateness
- Drape and movement
- Texture and visual interest
- Performance characteristics (breathability, wrinkle resistance, etc.)
- Colorfastness and washing behavior
We test all fabrics extensively before approving them for production. This includes wash testing (to ensure minimal shrinkage and color fastness), wear testing (to evaluate comfort and movement), and durability testing (to ensure longevity).
"The fabric is the foundation of any great shirt. You can have the most beautiful design in the world, but if the fabric doesn't perform well or feel good against the skin, nothing else matters."
— Jamie Kim, Head of Design at BTFD ShirtsPattern Making
Once we've finalized the concept and fabric, we move to pattern making—the technical blueprint that transforms a two-dimensional sketch into a three-dimensional garment. This is where science meets art in clothing design.
Our pattern maker, Teresa, has over 30 years of experience and works closely with our design team to translate concepts into precise patterns. We start with a base pattern that reflects our signature fit, then modify it according to the specific design and fabric characteristics.

Pattern development for our Classic Comfort shirt
Pattern making requires an intimate understanding of human anatomy and movement. The slight curve of a sleeve, the angle of a collar, or the placement of a pocket—all these details affect not just how a shirt looks, but how it feels and functions throughout the day.
We use both traditional hand-drafting techniques and computer-aided design to develop our patterns, combining time-honored craftsmanship with modern precision.
Prototyping and Fitting
With patterns in hand, we create the first prototype of each new design. This sample is sewn in our in-house sample room using the actual fabric selected for production. The prototype allows us to evaluate the design in three dimensions and make necessary adjustments.
Our fitting process is rigorous and involves multiple people of different body types. We assess:
- Fit across the shoulders, chest, waist, and hips
- Sleeve length and circumference
- Collar height and shape
- Overall proportions
- Comfort when sitting, standing, and moving
- Ease of putting on and taking off
It's not unusual for us to go through several rounds of prototypes before we're satisfied with the fit and function of a new design. This iterative process is time-consuming but essential to creating shirts that look and feel exceptional.

A fitting session for our new season prototypes
Details and Finishing
With the basic shape perfected, we turn our attention to the details that elevate a good shirt to a great one. These include:
Buttons
We use natural materials like mother of pearl, corozo nut, or recycled shell for our buttons. Each is selected to complement the specific fabric and design, with considerations for color, thickness, and durability.
Stitching
The type of stitch, thread weight, and stitches-per-inch all affect both the appearance and durability of a shirt. We use single-needle stitching on many seams for a clean finish, and reinforced stitching in high-stress areas.
Collars and Cuffs
These frame the face and hands, making them crucial design elements. We use traditional floating interlining in our collars and cuffs, allowing them to mold to the wearer over time while maintaining their structure.
Seam Finishing
Even details that aren't visible from the outside matter. We use French seams on many of our shirts, enclosing the raw edges for a clean interior and enhanced durability.
Production and Quality Control
Once the design is finalized, we prepare detailed technical specifications for our manufacturing partners. These documents outline every aspect of the shirt's construction, from the precise placement of buttons to the tension of specific stitches.
Our production manager, Marcus, works closely with our factory partners to ensure that each shirt is made exactly to our specifications. We conduct quality control at multiple stages:
- Fabric inspection before cutting
- In-line quality checks during sewing
- Comprehensive inspection of finished garments
- Random sampling and testing of production runs
We hold our manufacturing partners to the same high standards we set for ourselves, which is why we've built long-term relationships with a select group of ethical factories that share our values.
The Final Touch: Naming and Storytelling
A BTFD shirt isn't complete without its story. We name each design thoughtfully, often reflecting its inspiration or intended purpose. The storytelling continues in our product descriptions, photography, and styling suggestions, helping customers understand not just what makes each shirt special, but how it can become part of their personal style narrative.
From the first sketch to the final stitch, creating a BTFD shirt is a labor of love that involves dozens of skilled professionals and hundreds of decisions. We believe this attention to detail is what sets our shirts apart—and why they become favorites in our customers' wardrobes for years to come.
The next time you put on your BTFD shirt, I hope you'll appreciate not just how it looks and feels, but the journey it took to reach you. And remember—great design is meant to be worn, enjoyed, and lived in. That's the ultimate purpose of all our work.
Comments (2)
Fascinating to see what goes into creating a quality shirt! I never realized how many decisions and steps are involved. This explains why my BTFD shirts fit so much better than others I've owned - there's real thought put into every aspect.
As someone who sews as a hobby, I really appreciate this deep dive into your process. The attention to details like seam finishing and collar construction makes such a difference in the final product. Would love to see more posts like this!
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